FRIENDLINESS AT EVERY TURN

The people I met in my holiday at the Sunshine Coast, British Columbia, Canada have been very friendly.  I was asking a gas attendant where I can get cheap but good breakfast – he said Tim Hortons and at that point a man came in and in a friendly tone offered me directions. This is one of numerous turns of kindness.

But let us start when I started my trip.

After leaving home at 11 am to ensure me and my car would have a slot, I boarded the 1 pm ferry boat at Horseshoe Bay to sail to Langdale terminal 45 minutes away.  From Langdale, I drove for around an hour the length of the Sunshine Coast Highway to the very end Earl’s Cove where I had to board another ferry to Saltery Bay, 30 minutes away. 

It was a dark December 5:30ish when we disembarked and I was hungry.  Thankful I had data.  I was able to find online an interesting sounding place to eat, Skeeters Jacks, which turned out to be popular among the locals.  Tonight was the first of my friendly encounters.

Vanessa was the welcoming server who served the last beef ribs special for the night.  It was good.  But the tempting selection of cheesecakes and cakes in the big glass display was not the best.

BTW, there was no sunshine while I was in the Sunshine Coast for the first week of December 2017.  It was overcast or snowy or rain.

To be continued …

The BOARDWALK Restaurant in LUND BC

When I left Vancouver at around 1 pm, my ultimate destination was literally the end of the road, the end or beginning of Highway 101 (also called Sunshine Coast Highway) which is tiny Lund, British Columbia. 

It was now a dark 8 pm and there it was the well-lit Boardwalk Restaurant where you have to walk through a boardwalk to get there.  At night, you really can’t see the pathway to the boardwalk to Boardwork.  I had to ask the guidance of the receptionist at the Historic Lund Hotel.

The owners of Boardwalk, Roy and Rayana Blackwell, used to own Mr. Pickwick’s Fish and Chips in Marpole and downtown Vancouver.  The couple decided to sell Pickwick’s and move up northwest. During summer their new place is as busy as Mong Kok!

Roy and Rayana Blackwell

Boardwalk’s Fish and Chips has the most golden, crispy delightful crust coating fresh fish fillets (halibut, pacific cod or salmon).  Dipped in their fabulous tartar sauce, the marriage is bliss in your palette. 

The dining room of the Boardwalk is an original bunkhouse.  Rayana writes “It was one of five that was floated down from Toba Inlet in 1926 but I do not know when it was actually built.  They were built for a logging camp for the loggers to stay in. Once here they were homes until about 1982.  The one we have is the only surviving one and is the dining room.”

As proof, you can see the aerial picture of all 5 bunkhouses in Lund inside the restaurant of the Historic Lund Hotel and still spot the original Boardwalk.

Right across the hotel, as you dip at the end of Highway 101 facing the small harbor, you will see a marker of Highway 101.  Locals claim it is part of the same 101 road in the US that eventually connects with the Pan-American Highway which either ends in Quellón on Chiloé Island, Chile or down Ushuaia, Argentina (which claims to be the southernmost city in South America). 

Rayana Blackwell at the Zero Marker of  Highway 101 (Historic Lund Hotel at the right).  Boardwalk Restaurant is in the left side of the harbour.

The Lund assertion is not true.  Highway 101 is strictly within Canada, within the Sunshine Coast, and does not connect with US Route 101.  US Route 101 does not even reach close to the US-Canada border.

Somewhat of an explanation see A Coastal Road Trip, From Canada to Chile? which basically debunks Lund’s claim as the end or start, or being part of the imaginary Pacific Coastal Highway.  Except the fact that Lund is indeed the end or start of British Columbia’s own 99 mile or 159 km Highway 101/Sunshine Coast Highway starting or ending in Langdale BC before the water hits.

Lund’s most famous frequent visitor is singer Michael Buble who built a home facing the harbour for his parents. 

Unseen from Lund’s Harbour is Finn Cove where the local fishermen live.  You have to drive on Finn Bay Road which spuns off from Lund central.

MANIFEST EMILY

Manifest Emily

I was talking to the owner of a heritage home in Powell River’s Townsite who kindly showed me the exteriors of his house and the garden at the back.  I asked him for a recommendation for a breakfast place.  He uttered “Magpie’s” which is in Cranberry, a suburb adjacent to Townsite.  It was a quick 10-minute drive.

See the words in the sidewalk signage "Food That Makes You Fell Good Again!

Magpie’s Diner is in a big space with a long shelf of books lining the wall behind the counter - the kitchen visible through a window square hole.  

My Magpie’s Not-So-Big Breakfast ~ Cad$ 10.00 consisted of 1 large egg, hashbrowns, 1 slice of toast, 1 pork sausage, 1 bacon slice and 1 slice Canadian back bacon. If you double everything, for an additional Cad$ 4.00, it’s called Magpie’s Big Breakfast.  The diner claims to make everything from scratch, though I think the hashbrowns and bread were too perfect in shape – the kind you get from a supplier.  It was alright which included a tiny paper tub sampler of their in-house made blackberry jam.  When it’s that small – everything seems to taste better.

The small tub of the diner's own concoction of blackberry jam

While waiting for my turn to pay, I overheard my server who was now functioning as the cashier talked with a couple about the overnight snow now all over.  Emily said, “We need to manifest the snow.”  Manifest the snow?  Never heard of that before.  So curious me asked Emily did she really say “manifest”?  As in “reveal” the snow?  "Show" the snow?  What did she mean?  She laughed and explained she often listens to self-help radio programs where often the advise is to self-manifest as in to see the inner self and accept who you are. 

I guess Emily meant we have to accept the snow outside and its slowing down effects in commute, the need to shovel the sidewalk, etc. etc. and go on with day to day life.  Let us manifest ("accept") the snow.  Let us manifest the idiosyncrasies of life.

Emily was right.  There are things beyond our control and we have to live with it to our very best.  Otherwise, what is your choice?

To be continued …

Note: Magpie's Diner used to be located inside the Rodmay Heritage Hotel in Powell River's Townsite

The Friendliest Mail Carrier in the World

The Powell River Historic Townsite is a marvelous step back in time, a Hollywood set of small town North America in the 1910s.  Except it’s alive with real residents today.  Boys and men shoveling snow.  Mill workers reporting for work at the paper mill, the reason why the Townsite was built 107 years ago. 

Dr. Henderson's House

The buildings and houses for several blocks still stand albeit with remodeled interiors, although the first physician Dr. Henderson’s house is being rehabilitated and is open to the public.  Make sure you look at the sloping down kitchen sink counter – what a practical design to keep the area dry!

I was in the Townsite at least three times.  On the second visit, I was taking pictures outside the 1929 Federal Building.  The brick structure housed the Post Office, Customs and Excise and the Canadian Telegraph operations until 1974.  Now it is a brewery, aptly called the Townsite Brewery.  You can sample and buy their bottles inside.  Their Perfect Storm brew is something to “brew” for!

A lady postal carrier was passing by and asked if I am looking for a good place to eat.  Pleasantly surprised at her friendliness, and it was lunchtime, I asked stupidly, “Can you tell I am a tourist?”

Sharlene - the Friendliest Mail Carrier in the World

On my third visit, I saw her again and thanked her for recommending the café inside the 1931 former Bank of Montreal.  By the time you read this, a yoga studio has replaced the eatery in the spacious (the size of a basketball court) huge glass windows, high-ceilinged cavity with shiny hardwood floors cased in by brick walls.

We had a lovely chat and Sharlene gave more suggestions on what to see in the Townsite.  She told me there is a lady who works for the Rodmay Hotel (first built in 1911 as Powell River Hotel) who may be willing to tour me inside. 

Sharlene was all-smiles, and unobtrusively helpful.  The world needs more people like her.

Thank you Sharlene and hope we reconnect when you get a chance to visit Vancouver.

To be continued …

RODMAY HERITAGE HOTEL IN POWELL RIVER

I have driven through the hotel the day before, right next to the Paper Mill but I was not impressed.  Powell River Townsite is chockful of historic buildings and houses but the Rodmay Heritage Hotel looked run-down and I had no interest to walk in. 

Until Sharlene, the friendliest mail carrier in the world, suggested earlier in the day to ask for a tour from a female staff who lives in the hotel. 

There is limited street parking alongside the hotel’s façade.  To reach the hotel lobby, you have to walk up a series of steps to a locked glass double door!  So you have to park at the back of the building.  The way in is through the back entrance door next to the liquor store.  There were pictures of the old hotel on the walls of the narrow hallway.  Further in led to a dark space, which turned out to be the lobby.  The liquor store has a window counter to the hallway so I decided to chat a bit with the male cashier.  A short while later, a staff-looking (by her attire) woman coming from the lobby passed by. I asked her if she works for the hotel (“Yes”) and if she knows of a lady employee who lives in the hotel who can give me a tour. 

Irene Moss House Manager at Rodmay Hotel (lobby area)

“Well, I don’t live in the hotel, but I can give you a tour”, said Irene Moss who later gave her name.  Irene, as House Manager, is the longest still-serving staff among a handful. 

Irene showed me around the dimly lit lobby with a well-adorned Christmas tree near the fireplace.  There was one lady in an office working on a computer behind the unmanned reception counter.  On one side was the entrance to a Café with 1960’s diner booths (not open to the public yet), and then another door to the Pub (occasionally rented out but otherwise closed).  

Rodmay Hotel Cafe

Irene showed me the kitchen where we met the new owner of the hotel, a 60ish gentleman from China, who was prepping the staff Christmas dinner for the evening.  

The whole place was empty and quiet.  Very quiet.  And this was noontime.

As we climbed the grandish wooden double staircase, I asked, “Are there any guests?”  The response, “None at the moment.” 

The rooms had mismatched bed covers which felt polyesterish.  It was clean but more like staying in someone’s guest room.  At about CAD$60 a night for two during winter (goes up to CAD$75 in summer), with your own bathroom, this is the best bargain in the whole of Canada.  That is if you do not mind the sight of a mill with smoke stacks outside your window, and possibly hear occasionally the passing of logging trucks, or the dull whir of machinery. 

The Mona Lisa Room

  

The building opened in 1911.  In 1917, the hotel was sold to Rod and May MacIntyre hence the name Rodmay.

I asked if we could go up to the third floor.  Irene said that level was just mostly storage rooms for now and added that in the past it was the brothel section.

So for the finale, Irene led me back down the lobby to an Executive Suite next to the front entrance, with its own living room and kitchen.  This time the bedroom has that Marriott flair. Table lamps were Tiffany-ish.  One can luxuriate in a freestanding bathtub.  Again, windows facing the mill, but the curtains with a sheer layer does ensure privacy.  CAD$125.00 per night for two.

Executive Suite Bedroom

Executive Suite BathTub

Executive Suite Lounge

Next time I am in Powell River, I will stay in Rodmay Hotel, for a piece of history.  Thank you Irene!

The Water View, actually more of the Paper Mill as seen from the hotel's locked front door

To be continued ...

A SURPRISE IN EGMONT

Bathgate General Store in the village of Egmont

It was my final full day of vacation yet I found out that morning at 7 am I needed to write a short document and e-mail it before end of business day.  But my plan was to leave my hostel in Sechelt early by 8 am to drive an hour north to Earl’s Cove and hike to nearby Skookumchuck Rapids, which will take most of daylight.  In December, it goes dark by 4:30ish pm. 

The hostel did not have any terminals, and writing 300 words on my android was possible but very inconvenient if not impractical.  The only public library in the Sunshine Coast in Sechelt will not open till 11 am.  By that time, half the day’s daylight is gone.  What to do?  I weighed the alternatives.  Take my chances and drive up hoping I will encounter a community centre with a computer connection and terminals though I saw nothing online.  Alternatively, if a dead end, return by 1 pm to the Sechelt Public Library cutting my excursion significantly. 

At the village of Egmont, just a few miles ways from Earls Cove Ferry, and past the road that goes to the Rapids, I went inside Bathgate General Store and Marina (tel 604 883 2222) and asked a young man what they have for breakfast if any. Luke said he could make a sandwich for me. 

I asked Luke if there was a computer terminal in town I can use for 20 minutes or so.  To my surprise, he said, “Why don’t you use the computer in the anteroom before you enter the store?”   And there it was a monitor with a hard drive, internet connection and printer – at no charge!  I did not notice it on my way in.  The computer was installed and made available for local fishermen to check the daily weather and tides.

There was a hiccup in opening my e-mail because the terminal’s IPL address was not recognized.  My e-mail was asking verification by phone but there was no service in Egmont – too remote from a Bell Mobility cellular tower.  Fortunately, my e-mail gave me the option of asking for my Android’s serial details, which did not require any Wi-Fi. I was in!

Luke with my tasty ham cheese sandwich

Stayed there for an hour and accomplished my mission.  Thank you Luke!  BTW the ham sandwich (fresh bun) with cheese and lettuce (so crisp), extra mayo, was one of the best I ever had at CAD$5.00 including tax!  Luke advised me on the tidal times at the Skookumchuck Rapids.  It is when the tides are at their peak that is best to watch the counter flows.

The store gives out a free map with sketch of the trails to Skookumchuck Rapids.   Posted next to the cashier  is the daily Tide Schedule posted – or you can call Sechelt VisitorCentre if you have cell phone service.

To Be Continued ...

HALF MOON BAY KINDNESS LEADS TO SCONES

Aileen Perrett

I wanted to see the Historic General Store as advertised on a street signage along the Sunshine Coast Highway or Highway 101.  So I drove in to the hamlet of Half Moon Bay half an hour northwest of Sechelt BC.  The General Store was still closed at around 8:30 am but the Half Moon Bay Café next door was already open. 

The owner and baker for the day Aileen Perrett said I could wait in her place.  Her kindness led me to inquire what was bakingly so nostril-good.  Aileen said her blueberry scones should be ready soon.  They were chockful of fresh blueberries with that home-made vibe rather than abakery. $3.25 each.

Blueberry Scone

Her Amaretto Globes with an almond paste inside were scrummy.  I bought several to munch later. CAD$2.75 each or CAD$9 for a pack of four.

She said her brother who owns Elysian Coffee Cafes in Vancouver makes the same items, and indeed, they do as I confirmed when I got back.  Half Moon Bay is in Facebook or call Tel: 604 885 3600.  They close early during winter – like 4 pm.

Since I was going further north, Aileen tipped there is a good butcher inside the Oak Tree Supermarket farther up Madeira Park.

The Historic General Store other than the façade did not evoke history inside which was a regular 2016 convenience store.  It was selling ultra-pricey Christopher Norman chocolates handcrafted (they use the term “artisanal”) within the hamlet of Half Moon Bay.  At almost CAD$6 each for a 5 inch by an inch bar – Holy Smoke!

MADEIRA’S MEAT

Jim Bjornson

Madeira Park is a townish-community in the area of Pender Harbour on the Sunshine Coast of southwest British Columbia, Canada - about 37 miles or an hour drive from the Langdale BC Ferry Terminal via Highway 101/Sunshine Coast Highway.

I went inside Oak Tree Market – an ordinary looking place I ignored the night before and would have again if it wasn’t for Aileen Perrett’s tip (see Half Moon Bay article).  I walked past the counter to the back and Yes there was a butcher’s corner.  

A man with glasses was carving.  Jim Bjornson kindly showed me what he does in-house – all the sausages, the smoking of the bacon, the cured ham, and the garlic rolls (pork or buffalo meat). 

Aileen was right – the stuff was good.  I would definitely go back for Jim’s pleasing Tuscany Sausage with Fresh Red Russian Garlic CAD$9.03 for five sausages weighing a total of 1.13 lbs.

Address: 12875 Madeira Park Rd, Madeira Park, BC V0N 2H1

Phone: (604) 883-2411

Hours:  8 am – 9 pm