If ever there is
a place in Canada with mild
weather all year round, it would be Victoria
the capital of British Columbia.
Located at the southern tip of Vancouver Island,
the city is reputedly choke-full of history, and very English with lots of
gardens. So when I had a long weekend (ideally one should allot three
full days or more) I grabbed the chance.
|
Empress Hotel - fronting Victoria Inner Harbor |
But how do I get
there without a car? Easier than I feared.
From the city of
Vancouver, the cheapest and convenient way is by
taking the Canada Line train to Richmond.
Get off at Bridgeport
station and board bus number 620, Bay 3, which will take you direct to
Tsawwassen Ferry Terminal in Delta. For schedules, please see www.translink.ca
or you can call 604 953 3333.
Remember on
weekends and holidays a one zone bus pass ($2.75) is good for all three zones. After
6:30 p.m. on weekdays and all day Saturday, Sunday and Holidays, discount fares
apply and purchasing a one-zone ticket will allow you to travel through all
zones. The Sunday and holiday deal for a
monthly pass holder good for another adult and 4 children has been abolished as of January 1 2014.
The BC Ferry
adult one way fare from Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay Ferry Terminal, Vancouver Island is $16.00. Seniors who are BC
residents get to ride for free Monday thru Thursday unless it is a
holiday. While enjoying the scenic two-hour ride, you can have a
breakfast, lunch or dinner buffet on board most ships. For details and
schedules please see www.bcferries.com or call
1-888-BC-FERRY.
In the boat’s
gift shop, you can buy a Greater Victoria adult bus day pass ($5.00) or you can
pay the one-way fare to Victoria ($2.50, one-hour ride) at the waiting transit
bus (No. 70 or 72 – same bus return) outside the Swartz Bay Ferry
Terminal. Refer to www.bctransit.com and select Victoria as the
community.
Victoria is a compact city which means everything
can be reached within walking distance. The Visitor Centre is in the Inner Harbour
and is marked by an Art Deco monolith clock tower. The visitor centre
staff did not seem well-informed when it comes to the heritage sites of the
city. However, there are a good number of historical markers around town
to give you a glimpse of what happened in the past.
Try to include
in your itinerary: the very small and Canada’s
oldest Chinatown with its Cantonese Fan Tan Alley; a night walk along the Inner Harbour
to see the Parliament decked in lights, and a general walkabout. There
are free guided tours of the main Parliament building during the day, please
see www.leg.bc.ca.
The Royal BC
Museum has a good exhibition on First Nations culture and history. Quite
touching is the retrospective on the devastation of smallpox epidemic (brought
in by Europeans) which almost wiped out the First Nations people. In a
display case, near the Discovery Ship at the Modern History gallery, is an 18th
century Spanish dagger that may have been the one used to kill Captain James
Cook in Hawaii
in 1779. For details, please see www.royalbcmuseum.com,
Tel: 1-888-447-7977 (Family rate $37.63
plus HST for 2 Adults and 2 Youth, with children 5 and under free, Adult 19
years +, $14.29)
The Maritime
Museum of BC in Bastion Square
is smaller yet just as informative and fun with model ships and a showcase on
the history of BC Ferries. Within the building is a 19th century open-cage
elevator (one can ride upon request) which can bring you up to the third floor
where BC’s oldest courtroom, since 1889, is still in use.
(28 Bastion Square,
Tel: 250-385-4222 www.mmbc.bc.ca , Adult 19 years +, $12)
If you love
panoramic sunsets, take the local bus – No. 6, 10 or 26 – to the Canadian Navy
Forces Base at Esquimalt, a 3o minute ride
from downtown. There are great views of the Olympic Mountains in Washington State
across the blue-green Strait of Juan de Fuca.
There are also free tours of the base, call Tel: 250-363-5291 www.cfbesquimalt.ca
Located at the
highest point of Victoria proper, the Craigdarroch Castle
is a lesson in life that wealth is no guarantee to happiness but it certainly
assures great window views. Really a mansion that looks like a castle
with towers, Craigdarroch was built in 1889 by the wealthiest BC man then
Robert Dunsmuir. (1050 Joan
Crescent – a street name, 25 min walk from
downtown or take Bus No. 11 or 14, Adult admission is $13.95 Tel:
250.592.5323, www.thecastle.ca).
Plenty of Buses
( no. 4, 7, 11 and 14) go to the University of Victoria where you can hop off
at its terminal point and feel like a college kid again with the rest at
the Student Union and Bookstore.
Victoria is a North American city, and all the
Englishness are mere facades today – as in an afternoon tea or architectural
frontages.
Meals or Snacks
For an early
breakfast, a good, affordable, clean place is the oddly named Frank’s
Honey Bun (605 Yates Street,
250 -383-3231)
Instead of
having a very expensive afternoon tea at the century-old Empress Hotel ($49.95
plus tax a person!), create your own through the pastry and petit fours at
Murchie’s Tea and Coffee CafĂ©, established in 1894. Even the bread for
Murchie’s sandwiches is baked in the kitchen basement. (1110 Government St,
Tel: 250-383-3122, www.murchies.com). Free Wi Fi Opens at 7:30 am Mon-Sat
Rogers’ Chocolates has been selling at their 913 Government Street
storefront since 1891. Browse in to see their antique cases and you can
taste the kind of chocolates popular a century ago by buying their Traditional
Bag of hand-wrapped Victoria Creams, $16 (Tel: 250-384-7021)
Still run by the
Schaddelee family, The Dutch Bakery has been in the same place for more than 50
years (718 Fort Street,
Tel 250 385-1012, www.thedutchbakery.com).
It is probably one of the few bakeries that never bakes bread, instead they
sell cakes, cookies and pastries using original family recipes, with breakfast
and lunch menus.
Place To Stay
An affordable
accommodation and centrally located is the Hostelling International –Victoria hostel at 516 Yates Street,
Toll Free 1.888.883.0099 or 1.250.385.4511. Please see web site www.hihostels.ca.
Hostelling International has special discounts from time to time and if you are
a member.
IMPORTANT
NOTE: All prices and times are subject
to change. Please verify by phone or
online.