It was early December and churches and immigrant
associations were having their annual Christmas Fairs and Bazaars. In very very costly Vancouver, these fairs
are an affordable alternative from sticker shock shops malls.
One of them, the Oakridge Lutheran Church on Cambie Street
and 41st Avenue had a street placard advertising their Christmas
Bazaar on a Saturday 5th of December 2015. I
wanted to go because I read that a year hence, the Church’s 1950’s building (dedicated
on July 8th 1956) will be gone, to be demolished for a Vancouver phenomenon: a “development”
project.
In the church’s basement, which was the Fellowship Hall and
kitchen, were the various wares and goodies on display. On one table, I spotted slender deep-fried
doughs called Kleinurs about 6 inches in length, selling for CAD$3.00 for a
Ziploc of six pieces. I was told the
Kleinurs were made by an Icelandic lady who was there wearing a red
sweater. Late 60ish Inga Hendrikson told
me that in addition to Kleinurs, she also made Vinarterta but the last one has
been reserved for. She advised me to
heat the Kleinurs in a 200˚celsius oven for four minutes. “And with cold milk, it is heavenly,’ said a
smiling Inga. Kleinur is similar to
other fried doughs in other parts of the world.
But what about the difficult to pronounce at first
Vinarterta (often misspelled as vinerterta)?
Inga went back to the kitchen, took out a wrapped block from the fridge
and showed me gently holding what looked like a rectangular loaf with dark layers
in-between. Inga explained those
black-blue fillings are “CPR strawberries”.
CPR as in Canadian Pacific Railways?
Yes. Before cars, train was the
only way to cross continental Canada.
The story goes, in the 1920s, in CPR’s dining cars, strawberries
were on the menu. But the waiters would
often say “we are out of strawberries but we have prunes”. Prunes were inexpensive as opposed to
seasonal fresh strawberries. During the construction
and depression the railroads made prunes handy and cheap, could be kept in all
weather, hence the moniker “CPR strawberries.”
In a similar vein, during World War II, prunes were known in Canada as “lumberman's
strawberries.”
Back
to Vinarterta, a torte of five to seven-layered shortbread with prune paste filling with
or without an icing. In Manitoba where
many Icelanders settled, they do seven layers to symbolize the seven days in a
week.
Surprisingly, today’s Icelanders in Iceland do not know much about Vinarteta, a Christmas and festive dessert that was popular 150 years ago but no longer, except with the descendants of Icelanders who immigrated to North America. Vinarterta is almost a twin to a popular Icelandic cake in Iceland – the Randalín, a four layer cake with a rhubarb filling. Toronto baker Birgir Robertsson told blogger Jan Feduck that “the first bakery in Iceland, Bernhöfts Bakari, in Reykjavik was Danish in origin, but had an Austrian baker. He thinks that the name Vínarterta is a combination of the Austrian capital, Vienna and Terta, (which means a fancier version of a cake in Icelandic.) He was careful to tell me (Jan Feduck) that this is his theory and not based on any factual information.”
May
I order one?
Fortunately
Inga agreed and two Sundays later, I had my first Vinarterta for CAD$15.00 – a
steal by Vancouver standards. I gave
CAD$20.00 inducing a closed smile from Inga who proffered, “I was in a good
mood when I made this one.”
“It
freezes well,” Inga said. And that
proved true as we got to taste the confection mid-January 2016.
Inga
e-wrote: “I
use prunes only in the cake. Never any liqueur or dates. Spices for my filling
are cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, and vanilla. Icing is butter iceing with almond flavoring.”
In
our first meeting, I thought she said dates, not prunes. They're both dried
fruits, but not the same fruit. Dates
come from a date tree. Prunes are a type
of dried plum – hence referred to as such, or also as “plum raisins”.
Icelanders
in Canada have arguments in serious jest on who makes the best Vinarterta,
whether there should be icing or not, and what is the genuine recipe.
Inga’s
Vinarterta was certainly a delight to have with tea or coffee. But
she repeatedly told me that for 2016, I can buy Vinarterta at the Icelandic
community Christmas bazaar. Implying,
she no longer takes orders.
Interested in making the real McCoy? See a link at the end of Laurie Betram's article for a 1949 recipe.
Interested in making the real McCoy? See a link at the end of Laurie Betram's article for a 1949 recipe.
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